Best for the intrepid: Ostriconi
Parking along a deteriorating road west of the beach, paths to Ostriconi involve fording its shallow river. Eventually materialising, the beach too feels adventurous: though lifeguards attend in summer, an absence of amenities and the walk discourage many. You’ll need to lug water, an umbrella and everything else, but it’s worth it. Why? It’s not just the 700 metres of white-sand beach, dotted with driftwood or kelp, and the aquamarine surf that seduce one’s eye; there are also great, craggy mountains and a vivid green floodplain behind.
Photograph: Jon Ingall/Alamy